Section 1

 Disconnecting the Torque Tube

Prior to unbolting the torque tube from the sphere, disconnect all of the items between the rear axle and chassis, including the brake cables, shocks and springs. You need about 10' behind the chassis to roll out the rear axle and torque tube once disconnected.

 1.              Jack up the rear of the chassis.  Use a jack with rollers so that you can support the rear axle when you roll out the axle and torque tube from under the chassis.  The chassis should be raised high enough so that the rear axle can pass under the petrol tank. (Measure the height of the jack at its lowest point combined with the height of the rear axle to determine clearance required under the petrol tank.  Also check for clearance of brake drums under rear fenders.)  Chock the front wheels and place heavy-duty jack stands under the chassis rails near the center point of the springs.  (You will need jack stands that extend at least 24”.) Also place a second set of stands under the chassis near the transmission as a safety measure.  Lower the chassis on to the jack stands. 

 2.              Remove the rear wheels.

 3.              Disconnect the rear brake cables. 

 4.              Disconnect the rear springs by removing the safety bolt at the rear end of each spring. 

 5.              Disconnect the rear shock absorbers.  Be sure the axle is supported by the jack.

 6.              Disconnect the torque tube.  David Morrison suggests removing the floorboards to provide better access to the area where the torque tube bolts to the sphere.  He also suggests using a board set across the window sills with a block and tackle attached to the board to support the weight of the torque tube and lower it once removed.  

 Remove the ring of 12 - 5/16” BSF nuts and washers that connect the torque tube to the sphere. Clean up the nuts with a tap.  This allows the nuts to be installed finger tight when refitting and makes the job easier.   You will need to support the front of the torque tube once it is removed.  Consider tying a safety rope across the chassis rails to catch the torque tube in the event it falls.

 7.              Be sure the rear axle is disconnected from the brake cables, shock absorbers and springs before proceeding.

 8.              Lower the rear axle till the springs just clear the carrier on the axle at the rear of the springs and pull back the axle/torque tube to clear the spring assembly.  Lower the rear axle.  Roll the axle/torque tube from under the chassis using the brake drums or jack as wheels.  CAUTION: Support the front end of the torque tube to keep oil from running out. A rolling seat (Photo 4) provides an ideal support to hold the front of the torque tube in an elevated position and aids the removal and reinstallation process.

 With the axle/torque tube removed, you now have easy access to the rear of the chassis.  Take the opportunity to check shocks, exhaust lagging, wiring at rear of chassis, sphere, petrol tank, etc.  Dave Morrison suggests this is a perfect opportunity to clean and rebuild the rear springs since you have to pull out the axle to disconnect the springs at the rear from the axle.  He also noted that he had to remove the rear fenders and running boards on his RRCCW body in order to remove the springs from the chassis. 

 

Section 1 - Disconnecting Torque Tube
Section 2 - Removing the Front Section of the Torque Tube
Section 3 - The Mathematics of an Overdrive
Section 4 - Checking Universal Joint and Bearnings
Section 5 - Installing Overdrive in Drive Line
Section 6 - Overdrive Lubrication
Section 7 - Connecting Speedometer and Electric Controls
Section 8 - Hooking up the Electronic Control Box
Section 9 - Hooking up Speedometer and Calibrating Output
Section 10 - The Overdrive in Operation
Section 11 - Overdrive Service
Section 12 - Crusing in Overdrive
Endnotes - Endnote
Table 1 - Silver Ghost Rear Axle Gear Ratios Comparisons
Table 2 - Engine Revolutions per Tire Turn
Table 3 - Overdrive Speedometer Gears for the Silver Ghost